The diary of a traveller, entry 20. Back on train again

20 November

Almost 3 weeks I’ve been in Russia now. Doesn’t feel that long at all. It’s been great so far! Certainly hasn’t been stressful at all but it’s not lounging around on a beach either. Novosibirsk is probably the first place I’ve visited I would like to live in. Went back to the art gallery again to see the permanent exhibition (I missed last time). Had a great display of photos submitted by people from all over Russia which was cool. Some kind of nation-wide competition I think. All the photos looked suspiciously professional to me – like they’d all been taken by people who had access to some really expensive kit. Indeed some of the captions said that they were in fact part of photo-shoots for magazines and suchlike. But there were some great shots there nevertheless. Like the ones of various protest marches and demonstrations.

Personal Note: don’t order hot chocolate in a café in Russia again. It is essentially a cup of melted chocolate you eat with a spoon and not the milky hot-drink I’m used to. Had a tasty колбаса (Russian sausage) for tea! Spicy with potatoes and cabbage. Good choice for my last proper meal before the train.

The Novosibirsk central station is a very attractive building.

 I guess they have renovated it recently based on the freshness of the paintwork. Biggest I’ve been to yet I think. Back on the train again now: #1 Rossiya which is the top end in terms of cost and smartness but that’s just because they’re newer trains I think. 

In fairness I don’t find this wagon anymore comfortable than any of the others I’ve been in. Just has more snazzy folding beds and compartments, thicker curtains and a TV tuned to show “Girl Who Played with a Dragon Tattoo” or whichever one it is. My companions are two middle aged gents who seem alright. Conversation hasn’t been particularly forthcoming as yet. Chiefly because I don’t speak Russian but also because I’m tired and can’t be bothered. 

photos are taken from Richard's archive
(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 19. Novosibirsk and Akademgorodok

19. November

Bulk of the day was spent on a round trip visit to Akademgorodok and meeting with the Novosibirks State Uni Russian Language dept. Met the admissions tutor (who spoke better English than most people in England) and the Director of the dept. Both were very nice and I got a good impression about the Uni. Only issue is that it’s in the middle of nowhere but that could be a good thing for studies. They’re going to send me a test to gauge my grammar level (brilliant!).

Akademgorodok airphoto

Grabbed a quick meal of pelmeni before heading off the Opera and Ballet Theatre for Cinderella. People certainly smarten up for the theatre over here which is nice! Thankfully they still let me in despite looking like I was about to go hiking round the Lake District. Tried some Russian champagne before heading to find my seat. The ballet was good but didn’t bowl me over – remember seeing it before in Hong Kong and I wasn’t overly impressed then. Don’t get me wrong it was an awesome way to spend 9 pounds and the view and the Theatre it’s self were both awesome! And Cinderella was brilliant as was the evil step mother. Liked her a lot.

Last day in Novosibirsk tomorrow then on to Ekaterinburg. It’s been a really good few days – possibly my best stop so far.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 18. Novosibirsk

18  November

Novosibirsk on the map

Nice tasty start to the day. Chicken and fried potatoes kindly prepared by Victor, Olga’s husband – Olga and baby Annie spent the evening at her Mum’s flat I think. I slept like a log on the sofa! Had a little wander round the city last night to get my bearings but didn’t go far. A good few inches of snow fell last night and according to the thermometer in the flat it’s -6C today. I must be the least busy person I know right now – and I like that!

Done well so far. Had a pleasant walk through the park near the flat which led to the Cathedral of the Ascension. Bit small for a Cathedral I felt (not Lincoln that’s for sure). There was a service going on and an all female choir which was nice. It seems worshipers always stand in Russian Orthodox services.  After that I wandered down Krasny Prospect for a bit until I got to Lenin Square and the famous Opera and Ballet Theatre there. Bought a ticket to Cinderella (Золушка) by Prokofiev tomorrow night. Hopefully I won’t have too much trouble being admitted in my jeans and mountain-climbing boots (I think Russian’s dress up more than Brits for the theatre). 

After that I went to my 4^th Regional History museum and it was a good one. Definitely best value so far – 40Rub compared to the rip-off in Khabarovsk. Had a great exhibition on Shamanism – a type of religion prevalent in Siberia before the Russian Empire’s expansion east. Stopped off for lunch at a café near by with a large contingent of the beautiful people. Had a blini with sour cream and salmon. Ok.

Later on I went down to the State Art Museum where I saw a really excellent exhibition by a Novosibirsk cartoonist/satirist called Konstantin Valov. Lot’s of really cool satirical caricatures of Russian and international celebs and political figures. Great stuff! Some of them made me laugh out loud. Highlights were a crucified Mel Gibson, a genuinely spooky Michael Jackson and a great one of Putin and Medvedev strutting down a red carpet together. Also bought a new sim card – a bit more successfully than last time I think. Doing well today!

After the gallery I wandered a bit further down Sovietskaya until I got to the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. A red brick Catheral built in the early part of the 20^th century. (Novosibirsk is quite a young city which really took off after the Trans Siberian was built). There was a baptism going on. The baby was making a bit of a racket but that’s hardly surprising seeing as it was being dunked into a bucket of cold water.

Stopped off for a beer at an English-themed pub near the flat. Not overly proud of myself but it was either here or the Irish pub. Actually a pretty nice place! Not sure about the VH1 ‘We are the 80s’ video complication showing the naffest videos from Duran Duran, INXS et al. 

(c) Richard Breeson

Gallery: Novosibirsk in Past and Nowadays 

The diary of a traveller, entry 17. Krasnoyarsk, Taiga, Novosibirsk

17. November

Krasnoyarsk. 3.30am. Just helped B. carry his 42” TV and numerous other presents up the stairs at Krasnoyarsk station in my Birkenstocks. Sorry to see them go as they were both very nice people. They’ve been replaced by two guys and platinum blonde girl. She’s pretty, in a money and make-up sense. She has a half length fur jacket. I can’t work out which animal it used to belong to but it still has it’s paws attached to it which is nice.

30 minute stop at Taiga. Got talking with one of the waitresses from the restaurant wagon on the platform whilst having a cigarette. She promptly led me off the shops in the station where I bought a snickers and a Pepsi. I don’t know why: I don’t like Pepsi.

2 hours away from my stop. Went back to the restaurant car to get a beer and read for a bit. All the waitresses are very nice and chatty. Just wish I could speak better Russian. But this is definitely the best way to be practicing. Hats of to Ira/Dima basically! Although I think they’d be livid if they were here at how little I remember.

Horizontal snow coming thick and fast now! That’s what I’ve got to look forward to in 30 mins. Am I really going to walk to my new flat from the station? I didn’t. I got the bus. Sensible move.

Am at homestay #5 now in central Novosibirsk. Home of Olga, husband and baby Annie. Annie is a delightful big old smilely 11 month year old who doesn’t cry in my presence. Flat is nice with modern, if sparse, décor in a classic old Soviet-style apartment block. Novosibirsk is Russia’s third largest city so doubt it will be as easy to stroll round as it was in Irkutsk. Going to brave the weather and have a little explore now. 

The diary of a traveller, entry 16. Going to Novosibirsk

16 November

Back on the train again! 30 solid gold hours to Novosibirsk. Done very well with my wagon so far! Have met my two companions and we’ve had a good old chat in Russian. Bolot and Katia – husband and wife team. She is European Russian and he is native Kyrgyzstan. Very chatty. All I can say is that Russians are a real mixed bag. But I like these guys! Bolot’s on his way back home to visit his Mum in Kyrgyzstan who he hasn’t seen for 7 years. He’s gonna spend 30 days there and has filled all spare space in the wagon with gifts for her.

God I feel tired now from speaking Russian. I’ve exhausted the limits of my vocabulary I few times over. This train is too warm.


photos are taken from Richard's archive