Diary. Trans-Siberian journal, entry 30. Moscow!

1 Dec.

Moscow! Well, not quite. About to set off from the flat and catch the train to the capital for my city-break holiday with Sam. I’m told by Evgenii that it is -25C today – WTF. I am literally scared to step out.

Made it to Vladimir station – about as ugly as they come. Before that I stopped off at the Torgovy Center and bought a pair of brown leather winter shoes with a fluffy lining. Hopefully these will achieve the dual purpose of preventing my toes from falling off with frost bite, and allowing me to gain entrance to Moscow’s exclusive clubs and bars. Somehow I think my walking boots wouldn’t go down to well with the ‘face-control’ policy.

That was tense! Made it onto the train but not without a stressful few minutes running between the platforms trying to locate the correct one! It was bloody confusing seeing as the departures board said platform 3 but the train to Moscow actually arrived on platform 2 where it stopped for all of 1 minute. Wouldn’t want to miss a train at this stage in my trip! I am now sitting opposite a rather large woman with an incredibly ugly rat of a dog. Now just need to get to Moscow, pick up the keys, located the apartment, by vodka, lemons & tomato juice, have a big old drink and wait for Sam to arrive from London.

Made it! Sam’s done well in choosing this place! Big old apartment, smartly furnished on Tverskaya St, close to Mayakovskaya metro. I went out and had a little look round our area. Bought some provisions at the local, very swanky (expensive), supermarket. It seems we are staying in quite a swish part of town. I suppose we should expect to pay 3 times as much for everything here. Moscow is certainly massive, that’s for sure.

(c) Richard Breeson,
photos are taken from Richard's archive

The diary. Trans-Siberian journal, entry 29. Vladimir

30 Nov.

Chicken, rice, tomatoe, smoked salmon – my breakfast. Delicious! There’s no way I would normally eat that much at 8am, or indeed anything for that matter. But I feel a lot more healthy for is. I’m actually trying to delay going out as long as I can for fear of the cold. Colder than yesterday apparently. I really hope it isn’t like this all the time in Moscow – barely three weeks ago it was almost +15oC apparently. Strange to think that tomorrow I will be in Moscow already.

Can’t see how a warmer coat would really help more in this weather as it’s really my face that’s taking a battering here. Had a real high earlier though when I succeeded in getting my watch fixed at this little place near the entrance to the ‘Torgovy Centre’. All it needed was a replacement battery in the end – took about 5 mins of this very friendly skin-head attacking my Seiko with a pair of pliers and a hammer and all is well again (if a little scratched). I agreed to meet a mage of Ivan’s later on tonight called Tanya who works as a English teacher here.

The Crystal Museum was closed unfortunately so opted to go visit the Vladimir history museum where I saw a very famous, very old Andrei Rublev icon called the ‘Holy Virgin of Vladimir’ - Владимирская икона Божией Матери. Actually the best bit of the museum was the children’s not least because it was easier for me to understand the captions. Got some great chat from each of the lovely old dears who worked as the assistants on each exhibition. One was a pre-historic display with lots of mammoth tusks and old bones. The attendant mate me sit down on a rock and try to make a fire by rubbing two sticks together – I didn’t succeed but nor did I mind at all acting like an idiot since there was nobody else in the museum. In another exhibition I was take through a lesson in old Slavonic Script – occasionally being asked questions along the way. I found it really interesting even though I probably understood less than 10%. I think I’ll stick with modern Russian for now before moving on to Old Slavonic.

Well what an interesting evening (I seem to be using that adjective a bit too much I find – both in English and in Russian. Oh well, it was interesting). I went to meet Tatyana – a friend of Ivan’s who was keen to meet me. Based on our brief phone conversation I was expecting someone about 30 years young but no worries. She certainly had a lot more to say than the last Russian I met who wanted to practice English (back in Nizhny Novgorod). She invited me to her flat where we shared an ice-cold bottle of red wine in her kitchen. She lived alone in a 3 bedroom flat she had previously share with her father and sister. She was a very open person and her stories were quite poignant in many places. We spoke about many things. Some of her views were a bit wacky. Such as the one about how Russian is Helium and Arabic is Hydrogen and all the other languages are chemical elements too which derive from these two sources… or something. There were many other pseudo intellectual and philosophical exchanges between us – most of which went over my head. She was very friendly and offered for me to stay with her next time I was passing through Vladimir. She said that Russians like to revel in a gloomy inferiority complex which has existed since the age of Peter the Great. Thought for the day from Tanya: Americans are peaches – soft on the outside hard on the inside. Russians are coconuts – hard on the outside soft on the inside. Ok.

The diary of a traveller, entry 28. Suzdal

29 November

In a bus now on my way to Suzdal. Today I think it is about –17oC . It certainly does feel very cold. Ivan was shocked but what I wearing in quite a patronizing way I felt. Although now, in retrospect, I think he was right. The air is so cold your chest tightens as you breathe. The has to be the coldest I’ve had so far on this trip. Arrived in Suzdal and after a bit of a mix up I got a Taxi to what I think is the central square. Despite the freezing temperature it is a truly beautiful day.

As my face was starting to turn numb I sought refuge in a couple of churches but they were both padlocked shut – surely not the best example of Christian charity. Finally found a café and ordered hot chocolate to keep myself alive. Got my bearings and summoned up the will power to venture out again. Headed towards the old Kremlin and the Suzdal History museum (I had some trouble sticking my used-ticket stub from the latter intro my scrap-book as my glue has frozen).

The best building so far in this incredibly attractive town in the church opposite the History Museum. Beautifully situated on an incline close to the small, meandering river with gorgeous blue & gold painted domes. The inside of all the walls and the ceiling are covered in icons and frescoes. It’s amazing considering how many of these scenes I’ve witnessed that still just as affected by seeing a new one. Spent the rest of my time in Suzdal photographing beautiful buildings and losing feeling in my fingers.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 27. Vladimir

28. Nov – Vladimir

Said goodbye to Nizhny and my favourite host family yet which was a bit sad! Grandma gave me a big old kiss and Irena walked me down (actually made the sign of the cross as I got in the car which was a bit over the top but touching nonetheless). Definitely one of my best stops so far. Kind of place I’d actively make an effort to go back and visit again.

On the train heading to Vladimir now – not too far I think (about 3 hours which is a stone’s throw in this country). Everyone in the carriage is either asleep or listening to loud, bad music on their head-phones.

Made it to Vladimir – my last stop before I rendezvous with Sam in Moscow for a more traditional holiday. I’ve got a very nice cozy little room to stay in with more books in it than all my other apartments combined. If I had a little more than 3 days here this could be a good way to improve my reading. My hosts seem nice – Ivan is about 30 and his parents Elizaveta and Evgenii are in their 50s I guess. I have a lot of churches and museums to get through so better head off now.

I went to the Golden Gate museum which was a small but interesting museum of the city’s history. It’s getting pretty dark and cold here. I might have to buy some more clothes as people are constantly telling me. I bought some gloves. Black. Leather. Then went to the Assumption Cathedral (Успенский Собор) where I saw the frescoes done by Andrei Rublev in 1408. That was awesome! The cathedral has a great setting detached from the main road in a little square. Bright neon street lamps lead to the entrance and the back of the city sprawls out behind it. On the way back I called into an unassuming café on Moskovskaya for a coffee. Things seem to be a lot cheaper in Vladimir than in some of the other places – like Irkutsk and Novosibirsk for example.

Back at the flat now. (I missed my stop by some distance on the bus ride back and ended up walking for about 30mins – probably not a good idea in this cold). Had some food and a chat with Ivan. He’s a very smart guy I think – but glum as they come. Seems to act as though the whole weight of the world was on his shoulders. We spoke a bit about Russian poets and writers and he made the usual pretentious claim that it’s all untranslatable. He could receipt passages of Mayakovsky by heart which was quite impressive. Elizaveta is an editor of books – reviews the spelling and grammar content for articles being published through the university press. Apparently just completed 150 pages in 2 days – makes me feel quite embarrassed seeing as it takes me about 150 days to finish 2 books these days.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 26. Interesting guy Maxim Gorky and how to become free from the group tour in a Russian museum...

27. November

My watch stopped working at some point yesterday. Very annoying. I am the kind of person that starts to hyperventilate if they don’t look at their watch 300 times a day.

Irena and Grandma spend a long time fussing over me to make sure I get the right tram into town. Which I do. Was quite sweet really. Nice tram! Actually had heated seats. After a bit of searching I finally manage to locate the Maxim Gorky’s house and the museum therein. It was fairly interesting and similar to the Dostoevsky house I visited in St. P. Nice old dear showed me round the rooms speaking rapid Russian which I struggled to keep up with. Haven’t ever read any Gorky but maybe I should – seems like an interesting enough guy. After that I wandered back to Minin Square opposite the Kremlin and had a look around the market nearby. Couldn’t find a cheap watch to replace mine (which has stopped) so bought some shashlik spices instead. Then called into a smart café nearby for a coffee and a slice of salmon quiche which was really tasty. Neither is going to help me tell the time of course.

Later in the afternoon I visited the State History museum which is set in a big old former Russian aristocracy pad. Basically the antithesis of the Gorky House in every sense. Probably the kind of thing he was writing indictments about in fact. After paying the inflated price for my ticket for being foreign I suddenly found myself swept up into this massive tour group of old crusties (trans. pensioners) who entered the museum at the same time as me. I tried to detach from the group and wander around the museum by myself (as I am used to doing in museums) but some unpleasant little attendant told me to get back in the group and not to break rank again. I explained – in pretty good Russian I think – that I wasn’t part of the group. I then proposed that I wander around the museum at my own pace. But this proposition was met with a negative response. As it was, our tour guide, Olga, was actually very good. It was basically like going round the equivalent of an old English stately home – National Trust or suchlike. The type of thing Jane Austen fans and old people love. There were lots of ‘ooohs’ as we entered the ball room. In fairness it was pretty impressive – evocative of Tolstoy & co. The best thing was how good the restoration job was. Especially the paint-work. They had really managed to recreate what I assume was the original opulence of a place like that. I suppose people get a vicarious thrill from that kind of place: imagine themselves teleported into that lifestyle somehow. Beats grim reality in fairness. I would have liked to have learnt more about the building’s history. Like what happened to it under the Soviets.

On that note I called in to a café on Pokrovskaya with a CCCP theme. Actually a nice plain kind of place – not contrived and good value. The décor included a bust of Uncle Joe and loads of photos of all the major players including that freaky one of Lenin when he was a baby (even then it looks like he’s wearing a wig). Ordered Siberian beer and dried calamari.

Back home at the flat Yuri treated me to a slide show of every photo on the family computer. When we’d gone through those he fetched the old physical photos albums and we went through all of those. Pretty exhausting looking through 600 photos of people you don’t know but it was a good way to practice Russian. Lots of holiday shots from a place called Krim – near Yalta I think.

The diary of a traveller, entry 25. ' Different cultures and all that'

26. November

Such a nicer place to be staying than the last one! Irena washed and folded all my clothes and I don’t even think she will be charging me for this kindness (a la Irkutsk). Alena came by for breakfast and we had a nice brief, chat. Although I’m not really sure about this fad of serving plain pasta with a frankfurter for breakfast. But then again, different cultures and all that. Had a chat with Yuri over breakfast about whisky (I like this man) and now setting off into town.

Alena gave me the number of her friend who wants to meet me and practice her English. I like it here. Makes me feel all the more sad that I the trip is coming to an end soon. Today the temperature is about 1 or 2°C. If it’s like this in Moscow I will be a happy bunny. Wandered down the pedestrian only Ul. Pokrovskaya which has lots of cool looking bars and cafes along it and some random statues too. Headed into the Kremlin which has a real mix of buildings – though mostly government and administrative I think. 

Passed about 6 weddings having their photos taken then visited the Church of Archangel Michael which was small but beautiful. Lots of classical icons – I wished I could have taken a few photos but I suppose it’s a good thing that I can’t. 

Then found the State/Fine Art museum. Had the largest collection of famous works so far but not as big as the museum in Novosibirsk. Saw some great paintings by Repin, Levitan, Rodchenko, Larionov, Kandinsky, Goncharova and Malevich. Now in a bar on Pokroskaya where they brew their own beer. Tastes pretty good. The Italian themed sausage I ordered was delicious.

Ilya Repin

I met up with Alena’s friend who wanted to chat in English for a bit. I think she’s a teacher here. Sorry to say her English wasn’t amazing. But the main problem was that she was just really boring which is a shame. Nice enough girl though – we walked around for about an hour down streets I’d already visited until I made my excuses and went home. My legs are knackered now.

Back at the flat I met Irina’s Mum (Alena’s grandma). She is a great grandmother already but seems to be completely together upstairs. I like Yuri a lot – he’s a positive guy. I’m sorry to say the family-TV-watching-session, which I was invited to partake in, wasn’t my thing at all! We watched some sickening concert by an apparently famous Italian-Canadian+something-else diva backed up by an equally famous Russian composer and full orchestra. (No idea who they were). I think it was live from a concert hall in Moscow. Imagine Celine Dion but even more smug (if that’s possible) performing a repertoire with the Russian equivalent of Andrew Lloyd Weber. I mean, I wasn’t expecting the Sex Pistols, of course, but even so. They seemed to love it though to I slapped on a fake smile and grinned through it. They kept asking me to translate the English lyrics which I politely declined to do. Even if I could have I wouldn’t have wanted to.

(c) Richard Breeson 

The diary of a traveller, entry 24. 'I have to say I am feeling nostalgic and sad already to almost be at the end of the trip...'

24. November

Don’t feel like I’ve really done justice to Yekaterinburg but it’s difficult when you’re staying so far away from the centre and with a pushy host. Got pilmeni for breakfast which only served to highlight just how good yesterday’s lunch was. After some difficulty I finally managed to locate the baggage room at the station (kept mispronouncing ‘камера храрения’ every time I asked for directions). Baggage safely stored I set off back into town.

Ate a tasty pizza! Success! (Although it’s taken me the length of Siberia to get one). After that I went back to the café I visited on my first day. It’s called, imaginatively, New Bar or Art Bar – not quite sure which. Anyway, I like it here. 3^rd floor loft open plan; complete with a drum kit (and wifi) but with a surprisingly unpretentious feel. Kind of place I would like to hang out with my mates.

Back on the train now. Journey has been great so far. I have made friends with a charming devushka called Natasha. On her way back to home and husband in St. Petersburg after visiting family in Ekaterinburg. Intelligent, quiet and reserved. Taught herself English with incredible results – puts my Russian well and truly to shame (just in case it needed to be any further). 7 years of med school and now a psychiatrist but looking for a career change. The wages for doctors in Russia sound appalling! When you think about how well paid doctors are in the UK relatively. We continued talking for most of the evening until she got sleepy and I got hungry.

Visited the restaurant car and had what has to be the smallest cheese sandwich you can possibly get for 2 pounds. Reminded me of my friend Hugh’s idea to open a pub where the portions were so small they made the patrons feel like they were giants. I drew a to-scale drawing in my journal – length and width: approximately equal to that of an average male index finger.

______________________________________________________________________ 

25. November – Nizhny Novgorod

Coming to the end of my last long train journey in Russia. Just 3 ½ hours to Nizhny Novgorod. And I have to say I am feeling nostalgic and sad already to almost be at the end of the trip. The trains have been brilliant. Everyone has run to the minute. Makes me despair for the state of trains in my home country. The equivalent distance of the entire length of Britain in a comfortable sleeping compartment here in Russia costs less than the 200kilometers 2.5hr journey (if you’re lucky) from London to Lincoln sitting on the floor of a cramped vestibule. 

I met my new host, Alena and her teeny tiny husband Andrew (presumably Andrei), on the platform of Nizhny Novgorod station. They live near the Kremlin in central Nizhny but I am to stay with her parents not far from the centre. Not seen much so far but I am very grateful that the weather is nothing like as vicious as it was in the Urals. 6°C apparently. With 3 bedrooms this is the biggest flat I’ve stayed in so far. Got a feeling I’m going to like it hear. Time to venture out and have a wander. Need to find somewhere with internet to book accommodation for Moscow.

It takes about 25 mins walk to get into the centre of town. Went down Ul Gorkovo and to the edge of the Kremlin. Lots of nice smallish roads to wander down. Have all day Friday and Saturday to explore so no rush yet. Especially liked Ul Alekseevskaya where there were lots of uber-trendy cafes – think this could be a cool city to hang out in. Passed about 4 sex shops but no internet cafes. But despite that I still got a good vibe.

Headed back to the flat about 8. Still no sign of my hosts when I got back but they finally made an appearance about 9.30pm. Irena and Yuri – both are delightful! Guessing they’re both in their mid 50s. They fed me bread and cheese with homemade apple juice from their dacha. Think Yuri is an academic – not sure about Irena.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 23. On the way to Europe

23. November

Another culinary delight for breakfast. This time it was micro-waved, powdered mashed potatoes. Totally smothered in butter again of course. Quite disgusting. Today Andrei has organised a big excursion for us outside of the city to the old part of Yekaterinburg and to the monastery erected at the sight of the mineshaft where the Romanov’s remains were found. Slightly macabre.

Well it was a long old day and I saw lots of interesting things but I won’t be too sad to say goodbye to Andrei. He’s the most irritating host I’ve had so far – would much preferred to have explored Yekaterinburg myself. Anyways, first stop on our grand excursion was a little town called Nevyansk (Невянск). It has a leaning tower which is apparently quite famous. The town used to be famous as a large producer of cast iron (brought to mind that wonderful sequence in Andrei Rublev where they cast the bell). It was founded by Peter I in the early part of the 18^th century. There was an English clock mechanism in the top of the tower. Nice. There was also a smallish cathedral nearby which we had a quick tour off (an unknown man gave me a candle to light which was nice of him – I think I put it in front of the saint who represented grammatical understanding and knowledge).

After that we went to a Russian ceramic pot museum and shop which was everything you would expect from a Russian ceramic pot museum and shop. Highlight of the day was lunch which was delicious homemade pilmeni in a small village outside of the town. There was a blazing fire in the fireplace and also a small Old Believer’s church in the garden.

We drove on and got to the site where the Romanov’s bodies where found around 5pm. It is now a complex in the middle of the woods for the Church – monasteries, seminaries etc. Quite a nice spot actually. So bloody cold that we didn’t stay long though. I think it is more humid here in the Urals perhaps. The last stop was the Europe-Asia border which is a geographical border based on the gradient of the Ural Mountains I think. Took a photo.

(c) Richard Breeson,

photos are taken from Richard's archive

The diary of a traveller, entry 22, Staying in Ekaterinburg

22. November

Well there’s definitely a lot to see here in Ekat (Ekaterinburg). Am a bit miffed at my accommodation people (HOFA) for putting me so far away from the centre in two cities now. Andrei gave me an appropriately weird breakfast earlier. Consisted of biscotti, milky, sicky porridge and bread with a centimeter thick slab of butter on it which I assumed was cheese at first before taking a nice big bite. “He’s trying to feed me up”, I thought. I feel that my Russian has completely deserted me since I arrived. Had a difficult time trying to change money in the bank earlier (I made sure the notes were all crisp and clean in advance). Going to be difficult to form a constructive opinion of Ekat in the limited time I have so will have to prioritise where to go. Off to the Museum of Youth to start with.

I didn’t go to the Museum of Youth because it doesn’t appear to exist anymore. Instead I went to the very small photography exhibition which contained lots of pretentious snaps including a collection by an apparently famous photographer documenting the everyday existence of, of course, drug addicts. My overall impression was that the majority of the photos in the gallery were either of drug addicts or taken by drug addicts. Spoke briefly with a Polish girl who works at the gallery. She’d been in St Petersburg for 3 years, moved to Ekat 3 months ago and lurves it. She walked off mid-conversation which I thought was a tad rude.

Really can’t make up my mind about Yekaterinburg at the moment. It certainly hasn’t won me over yet. I reckon this is the coldest I have been so far. Might have to break out the thermal underwear soon. A lot depends on your first impressions and where you’re staying and all that. Time of year, who you’re with, who you meet. All these things factor into your opinions and experiences in a big way when you come to a new place.

Back at the flat. This sofa bed is the most uncomfortable thing I have ever attempted to sleep on. I think it must be older than Andrei. Everything in this place is old and crusty and stale – like the dried bread crumbs on the floor.

from 'Trans-Siberian Journal' 

photos are taken from Richard's archive

The diary of a traveller, entry 21. Ekaterinburg - 'The start of European Russia as I understand it'.

21 November

Didn’t sleep that well. Mainly because my two companions spent most of the evening giggling like little girls to the sitcom they were watching on the tele. It was really irritating in fact. Almost funny that they had these high-pitched ridiculous giggles but spoke in gruff, low voices.

Having a good chat with the remaining guy in my wagon. He’s from Krasnoyarsk. Like a lot of the good people I’ve met on the trains it seems – shame I am not visiting there on this trip. On his way to Tyumen and from there to Surgat I think. The train stopped for 20mins at Tyumen so I went outside for a smoke. Christ it was cold! Shocking that the sun can be so bright and there isn’t much snow but the temperature is so bloody cold. Asked the provodnitsa what the temperature was and she said -10C. Nothing apparently. Personal note: wear more clothes when going outside next time.

Got the wagon to myself now. But very hungry so might head the restaurant car and see if I can score some grub there in a bit. Still have that tasty sausage dish from last night in my mind. Would have bought something from the platforms but there was nobody there selling anything. Had a suitably greasy pork cutlet and fried potatoes in the restaurant car. Am in high spirits and looking forward to getting to Yekaterinburg. The start of European Russia as I understand it.

I called Andrei (my new host in Ekat) since he didn’t bother to reply to my text. He explained that “he no good speak English” but hopefully between my no good speak Russian and his English we have confirmed that he is going to meet me at the platform. Looking at the map it appears I’m staying a good distance from the centre of the town again.

Christ, I’m knackered. Well it has certainly been an eventful evening since arriving into Yekaterinburg. Met Andrei at the station who is the most interesting host I have had yet. I say interesting but by no means best. He is probably in his mid-50s. He speaks less English than I do Russian which I suppose is good practice although he isn’t exactly my first choice for a conversation partner. First thing he said when he met me off the train was that we were going to see an American jazz musician. Ok. When he said American he cast his hand across his face and said “black”. He wasn’t incidentally. He was called Steve Turre and he was superb! Apparently quite a famous Jazz trombonist, he also played the conch and had a collection of shells with specially cut mouthpieces, each for a different register. But I am digressing. Back to the train station. Andrei shepherded me along to the car where he introduced me to Evgeny who I assumed was his son at first. He wasn’t. 24. Nice guy. No English.

They took me on a mini guided tour of the city to kill time before the concert. It was bitterly cold and would be for the duration of my stay in Yekaterinburg. We blitzed throught the Romanov Cathedral which looked really interesting even though we were only in there for about 5 minutes. The assassinated Tsar Nicholas II and his family were recently made saints by the Orthodox church. Much of the tourist sites here seem to be dominated by the Romanovs as it was the place of their assassination. As we were driving Andrei pointed out the President’s residence which is apparently where Medvedev stays when he’s in town. It just looked like a Tsarist palace to me, ironically.

All the while this was going on Evgeny was cheerfully chauffeuring us along while I sat in the back seat trying to work out what the crack was. At one point Andrei got out to buy batteries. E. asked me if I was bored. I didn’t fully understand the question at the time so probably just said ‘Да’. I wasn’t bored. Just confused.

Anyway, we got to the venue which was a concert hall with a few different venues inside it. A bit like the HK Exhibition centre though smaller. The gig was in one of the larger halls and there was a good turn out for a Sunday night. It was quite a smart crowd with some people more glam than others – I fell into the latter category, naturally. The gig itself was great. Based on the programme notes I think Steve Turre is quite well known in jazz circles but then I know nothing about Jazz. He was backed by a 4-piece Russian band who I think he is touring the country with: piano, bass, drums, sax. He put on a great show and I really enjoyed it. Highlights being his ‘jazz battles’ with the saxophonist on soprano sax, his sea-shells and various mutes he used including a toilet plunger. After the concert Andrei insisted we go back-stage to meet Steve which I thought was a bit pushy but Evgeny and I indulged him nevertheless. I had a brief chat with Steve about Ronnie Scott’s in London and how it had gone down-hill as a venue. Andrei kept chirping in and wanted me to translate whatever it was he was blathering about. I just made something up and we left shortly before we outstayed our welcome.

Back at Andrei’s flat now. Turns out he’s an art dealer. Andrei and Evgeny chatted away over the tea and cabbage together for what seemed like hours with me now both bored and tired. I think they know each other through ‘work’ somehow. A little bit weired-out by everything as the setting and host are both quite strange. Every spare wall space in A’s flat is taken up by a really mixture of paintings ranging from old icons to modern portraits of Nicholas II to Holbein prints to modern crap. There’s a samovar on the table from 1892 and a bookcase filled with all sorts of junk behind it.

the photos are taken from Richard's archive

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 20. Back on train again

20 November

Almost 3 weeks I’ve been in Russia now. Doesn’t feel that long at all. It’s been great so far! Certainly hasn’t been stressful at all but it’s not lounging around on a beach either. Novosibirsk is probably the first place I’ve visited I would like to live in. Went back to the art gallery again to see the permanent exhibition (I missed last time). Had a great display of photos submitted by people from all over Russia which was cool. Some kind of nation-wide competition I think. All the photos looked suspiciously professional to me – like they’d all been taken by people who had access to some really expensive kit. Indeed some of the captions said that they were in fact part of photo-shoots for magazines and suchlike. But there were some great shots there nevertheless. Like the ones of various protest marches and demonstrations.

Personal Note: don’t order hot chocolate in a café in Russia again. It is essentially a cup of melted chocolate you eat with a spoon and not the milky hot-drink I’m used to. Had a tasty колбаса (Russian sausage) for tea! Spicy with potatoes and cabbage. Good choice for my last proper meal before the train.

The Novosibirsk central station is a very attractive building.

 I guess they have renovated it recently based on the freshness of the paintwork. Biggest I’ve been to yet I think. Back on the train again now: #1 Rossiya which is the top end in terms of cost and smartness but that’s just because they’re newer trains I think. 

In fairness I don’t find this wagon anymore comfortable than any of the others I’ve been in. Just has more snazzy folding beds and compartments, thicker curtains and a TV tuned to show “Girl Who Played with a Dragon Tattoo” or whichever one it is. My companions are two middle aged gents who seem alright. Conversation hasn’t been particularly forthcoming as yet. Chiefly because I don’t speak Russian but also because I’m tired and can’t be bothered. 

photos are taken from Richard's archive
(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 19. Novosibirsk and Akademgorodok

19. November

Bulk of the day was spent on a round trip visit to Akademgorodok and meeting with the Novosibirks State Uni Russian Language dept. Met the admissions tutor (who spoke better English than most people in England) and the Director of the dept. Both were very nice and I got a good impression about the Uni. Only issue is that it’s in the middle of nowhere but that could be a good thing for studies. They’re going to send me a test to gauge my grammar level (brilliant!).

Akademgorodok airphoto

Grabbed a quick meal of pelmeni before heading off the Opera and Ballet Theatre for Cinderella. People certainly smarten up for the theatre over here which is nice! Thankfully they still let me in despite looking like I was about to go hiking round the Lake District. Tried some Russian champagne before heading to find my seat. The ballet was good but didn’t bowl me over – remember seeing it before in Hong Kong and I wasn’t overly impressed then. Don’t get me wrong it was an awesome way to spend 9 pounds and the view and the Theatre it’s self were both awesome! And Cinderella was brilliant as was the evil step mother. Liked her a lot.

Last day in Novosibirsk tomorrow then on to Ekaterinburg. It’s been a really good few days – possibly my best stop so far.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 18. Novosibirsk

18  November

Novosibirsk on the map

Nice tasty start to the day. Chicken and fried potatoes kindly prepared by Victor, Olga’s husband – Olga and baby Annie spent the evening at her Mum’s flat I think. I slept like a log on the sofa! Had a little wander round the city last night to get my bearings but didn’t go far. A good few inches of snow fell last night and according to the thermometer in the flat it’s -6C today. I must be the least busy person I know right now – and I like that!

Done well so far. Had a pleasant walk through the park near the flat which led to the Cathedral of the Ascension. Bit small for a Cathedral I felt (not Lincoln that’s for sure). There was a service going on and an all female choir which was nice. It seems worshipers always stand in Russian Orthodox services.  After that I wandered down Krasny Prospect for a bit until I got to Lenin Square and the famous Opera and Ballet Theatre there. Bought a ticket to Cinderella (Золушка) by Prokofiev tomorrow night. Hopefully I won’t have too much trouble being admitted in my jeans and mountain-climbing boots (I think Russian’s dress up more than Brits for the theatre). 

After that I went to my 4^th Regional History museum and it was a good one. Definitely best value so far – 40Rub compared to the rip-off in Khabarovsk. Had a great exhibition on Shamanism – a type of religion prevalent in Siberia before the Russian Empire’s expansion east. Stopped off for lunch at a café near by with a large contingent of the beautiful people. Had a blini with sour cream and salmon. Ok.

Later on I went down to the State Art Museum where I saw a really excellent exhibition by a Novosibirsk cartoonist/satirist called Konstantin Valov. Lot’s of really cool satirical caricatures of Russian and international celebs and political figures. Great stuff! Some of them made me laugh out loud. Highlights were a crucified Mel Gibson, a genuinely spooky Michael Jackson and a great one of Putin and Medvedev strutting down a red carpet together. Also bought a new sim card – a bit more successfully than last time I think. Doing well today!

After the gallery I wandered a bit further down Sovietskaya until I got to the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. A red brick Catheral built in the early part of the 20^th century. (Novosibirsk is quite a young city which really took off after the Trans Siberian was built). There was a baptism going on. The baby was making a bit of a racket but that’s hardly surprising seeing as it was being dunked into a bucket of cold water.

Stopped off for a beer at an English-themed pub near the flat. Not overly proud of myself but it was either here or the Irish pub. Actually a pretty nice place! Not sure about the VH1 ‘We are the 80s’ video complication showing the naffest videos from Duran Duran, INXS et al. 

(c) Richard Breeson

Gallery: Novosibirsk in Past and Nowadays 

The diary of a traveller, entry 17. Krasnoyarsk, Taiga, Novosibirsk

17. November

Krasnoyarsk. 3.30am. Just helped B. carry his 42” TV and numerous other presents up the stairs at Krasnoyarsk station in my Birkenstocks. Sorry to see them go as they were both very nice people. They’ve been replaced by two guys and platinum blonde girl. She’s pretty, in a money and make-up sense. She has a half length fur jacket. I can’t work out which animal it used to belong to but it still has it’s paws attached to it which is nice.

30 minute stop at Taiga. Got talking with one of the waitresses from the restaurant wagon on the platform whilst having a cigarette. She promptly led me off the shops in the station where I bought a snickers and a Pepsi. I don’t know why: I don’t like Pepsi.

2 hours away from my stop. Went back to the restaurant car to get a beer and read for a bit. All the waitresses are very nice and chatty. Just wish I could speak better Russian. But this is definitely the best way to be practicing. Hats of to Ira/Dima basically! Although I think they’d be livid if they were here at how little I remember.

Horizontal snow coming thick and fast now! That’s what I’ve got to look forward to in 30 mins. Am I really going to walk to my new flat from the station? I didn’t. I got the bus. Sensible move.

Am at homestay #5 now in central Novosibirsk. Home of Olga, husband and baby Annie. Annie is a delightful big old smilely 11 month year old who doesn’t cry in my presence. Flat is nice with modern, if sparse, décor in a classic old Soviet-style apartment block. Novosibirsk is Russia’s third largest city so doubt it will be as easy to stroll round as it was in Irkutsk. Going to brave the weather and have a little explore now. 

The diary of a traveller, entry 16. Going to Novosibirsk

16 November

Back on the train again! 30 solid gold hours to Novosibirsk. Done very well with my wagon so far! Have met my two companions and we’ve had a good old chat in Russian. Bolot and Katia – husband and wife team. She is European Russian and he is native Kyrgyzstan. Very chatty. All I can say is that Russians are a real mixed bag. But I like these guys! Bolot’s on his way back home to visit his Mum in Kyrgyzstan who he hasn’t seen for 7 years. He’s gonna spend 30 days there and has filled all spare space in the wagon with gifts for her.

God I feel tired now from speaking Russian. I’ve exhausted the limits of my vocabulary I few times over. This train is too warm.


photos are taken from Richard's archive 

The diary of a traveller, entry 15. Part 3 Irkutsk

15. November

Pretty good night’s sleep. Then a breakfast of freshly microwaved pancakes smothered in jam and, I think, yogurt.  After putting the packet in the microwave, pressing a button, waiting 40 seconds and then placing the plate on the table T. sat next to me, head in hands apparently in a state of utter exhaustion.  Shortly after this she cast me a glance as if she had just cooked a feast of epic proportions for me and that, frankly, спасибо wasn’t a sufficient enough response on my part. I think this family might be a little bit odd. They have caged birds in the kitchen, oil paintings of themselves in the living room where the television ought to be, and a piano which is “not for playing” I’m told. Ok.

Not an wholly successful day today truth be told. Spent the majority of the daylight walking through the city looking for a museum to the Decembrists which I’m convinced doesn’t exist whatever the guide book says. After that I gave up and headed to the art gallery instead which was closed despite Tuesday being their reported day-off and today being Wednesday. Then I had to leg it to the other side of town to get my visa registered before it was too late (even though I’m leaving the city tomorrow). The girl at the travel agents took pity on me as I was clearly looking a wee bit flustered and processed it for me in about an hour. Sputnik travel gets a big old tick from me. Decided to go and sit in the pub for a bit and read after that. 

The diary of a traveller, entry 14. Part 3 Irkutsk

14. November 

Am in Irkutsk now. Finally. One and a half days to play with then back on the train again. Jesus, Russia really does have a problem with Pizza! Avoid ‘Pizza Mario’ if you’re ever in Siberia. From the façade you’d think it would be quite a nice place for a cheap and easy pizza but oh no! How hard can it be? You don’t have to go to Italy I think… HK managed it ok. Oh well, rant over. I’ve learned my lesson - will stick with pelmini for the duration.

I’m staying in a nice flat very much in the centre of the city which is nice. Strolling down Karl Marx street I like would I’ve seen so far. Walked down the street until I reached the Angara river which is already starting to freeze over. After that I called into the Regional History museum – no English captions but refreshingly no dead animals either. The city’s female population is winning the beauty contest out of the three I’ve visited so far – still not a patch on St Petersburg of course. After this I went to get a second lunch at a bar. Not sure what I ordered but it was super tasty! Something with pork – not a million miles away from stroganoff I guess. Tender pork, onions, mushrooms and fragrant rice on the side. Only let down was I didn’t order bread to mop up the rich smoky sauce. I like the layout of the city. Centre is quite compact and the tallest building is only 12 stories. A few cool looking cafes and bars here and there which I guess is where it gets its tag ‘The Paris of Siberia’ from.

Back at the flat, which is the smartest I’ve stayed in yet. My host is another Tatiana and her husband, a daughter and a son. And a small dog called Pierre. Husband seems like a nice guy. Daughter’s a bit of a brat. T. is the only one who speaks any English. Dunno much about her except that she’s a self-professed animal lover. Although personally I feel keeping a bird in a cage is a bit of a paradox in that respect.

The diary of a traveller, entry 13. Part 3 Lake Baikal

13. November

V. returned this morning. After breakfast I set off by myself on another little hike. Headed for the funicular – this is actually a chair-lift about 700m long running along what looks like it could be (and perhaps is) a really nice little ski slope. The chair lift wasn’t working so I had to take a winding walk through the woods following the car tracks to the top of the slope. It is a lot warmer today and the walk up was pretty heavy going. But the view at the top was more than worth it. I passed an old couple along the way but other than that there was no-one around. One of the highlights of my trip. Also made friends with a Siberian cat which had swimming pool blue eyes.

After this I walked back down to the apartment. V. has decided we should go and check out Port Baikal today. It is nearly 2pm so only a couple of hours of sunlight left.

The ferry over to Port Baikal from Listvyanka was a rickety hunk of iron. It runs 5 times a day and has space for 2 cars comfortably but the somehow managed to cram on 7! It was great to get onto the lake itself, although I half expected to sink at any moment. Port Baikal itself was charming – what I was hoping to find in Listvyanka but didn’t. A proper old village of about 300 residents which was a key stopping point for the old Circumbaikal railway. Wooden houses. No hotels or main roads (or cars for that matter). Situated on the bank of the lake a the foot of steep hills and woodland. Valerii took my on a hike up the hill which was virtually a sheer climb in places. Even though it seems I have knackered my knee now view from the top was well worth the effort! 

Whilst waiting for the return ferry in a small museum back in the village I made friends with 8 or 9 boys from Irkutsk who were on a school trip. They were all about 14 or 15 and were a great bunch! Instantly clocked me for a foreign tourist and came over to chat. At first we spoke in English but I’m happy to say that I spoke better Russian than they did English so we switched. Instantly thought I was American at first but I very firmly corrected them! They all wanted their photo taken with me and we had a good chat about football and movies etc. Were so excited when I showed them a $20 note (although I think that might have confused the issue of my nationality further). Don’t think any of them had been outside the former USSR before. 

The diary of a traveller, entry 12. Part 3 Lake Baikal

12. November

Weather has changed dramatically. Best part of a foot of snow must have fallen over night. Been left to my own devices today as V. has gone back to Irkutsk, returning tomorrow morning. First stop was the Baikal Museum which was just a stone’s throw from the apartment. Highlight was the aquarium and the two seals they have there! Mother and daughter pair apparently – mother was rescued by a boat injury and then subsequently gave birth to daughter apparently. They were very friendly (or as friendly as you can be if you’re a seal behind inch-thick glass). There were other species there from the lake like sturgeon and the famous omul – but these were less friendly.

After that I braved the elements and went off in search of a famous rock which had something to do with the history of how the lake was formed or so the legend says – Old Man Baikal threw it at his daughter for marrying the wrong river or something like that. 

Anyway, it was bloody cold and after 30mins or so of walking into the wind and snow I took a photo of the nearest rock which probably wasn’t the right one and then headed back to the apartment to get my scarf. Then walked all the way from the apartment to the village and back again which is a good hour each way. I’m not at all bowled over by Listvyanka as a village/town. It’s basically one long road and is the kind of place you’d want a car for sure. Although that said driving round here seems like a risky business judging by the number of crashes they have!

From the market I bought two large smoked omuls and a loaf of stale white bread – gonna enjoy this biblical dinner later. After that I had another good chat with an impudent young lad running the bar of a café I called into. To begin with he wanted to charge my 500 RUB for sitting down (in an empty café) for fear that I was about to eat my loaf and fish. But the matter was soon cleared up and I bought a coffee with milk and two glasses of aptly named ‘Baikal’ vodka which was very good. All for the reasonable price of £2.30! 

We chatted about Russia, England, how 25 cars fall into the frozen lake each year and how smoking is bad for you.

             

dinner

view to the Lake Baikal 

photos are taken from Richard's archive