The diary of a traveller, entry 24. 'I have to say I am feeling nostalgic and sad already to almost be at the end of the trip...'

24. November

Don’t feel like I’ve really done justice to Yekaterinburg but it’s difficult when you’re staying so far away from the centre and with a pushy host. Got pilmeni for breakfast which only served to highlight just how good yesterday’s lunch was. After some difficulty I finally managed to locate the baggage room at the station (kept mispronouncing ‘камера храрения’ every time I asked for directions). Baggage safely stored I set off back into town.

Ate a tasty pizza! Success! (Although it’s taken me the length of Siberia to get one). After that I went back to the café I visited on my first day. It’s called, imaginatively, New Bar or Art Bar – not quite sure which. Anyway, I like it here. 3^rd floor loft open plan; complete with a drum kit (and wifi) but with a surprisingly unpretentious feel. Kind of place I would like to hang out with my mates.

Back on the train now. Journey has been great so far. I have made friends with a charming devushka called Natasha. On her way back to home and husband in St. Petersburg after visiting family in Ekaterinburg. Intelligent, quiet and reserved. Taught herself English with incredible results – puts my Russian well and truly to shame (just in case it needed to be any further). 7 years of med school and now a psychiatrist but looking for a career change. The wages for doctors in Russia sound appalling! When you think about how well paid doctors are in the UK relatively. We continued talking for most of the evening until she got sleepy and I got hungry.

Visited the restaurant car and had what has to be the smallest cheese sandwich you can possibly get for 2 pounds. Reminded me of my friend Hugh’s idea to open a pub where the portions were so small they made the patrons feel like they were giants. I drew a to-scale drawing in my journal – length and width: approximately equal to that of an average male index finger.

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25. November – Nizhny Novgorod

Coming to the end of my last long train journey in Russia. Just 3 ½ hours to Nizhny Novgorod. And I have to say I am feeling nostalgic and sad already to almost be at the end of the trip. The trains have been brilliant. Everyone has run to the minute. Makes me despair for the state of trains in my home country. The equivalent distance of the entire length of Britain in a comfortable sleeping compartment here in Russia costs less than the 200kilometers 2.5hr journey (if you’re lucky) from London to Lincoln sitting on the floor of a cramped vestibule. 

I met my new host, Alena and her teeny tiny husband Andrew (presumably Andrei), on the platform of Nizhny Novgorod station. They live near the Kremlin in central Nizhny but I am to stay with her parents not far from the centre. Not seen much so far but I am very grateful that the weather is nothing like as vicious as it was in the Urals. 6°C apparently. With 3 bedrooms this is the biggest flat I’ve stayed in so far. Got a feeling I’m going to like it hear. Time to venture out and have a wander. Need to find somewhere with internet to book accommodation for Moscow.

It takes about 25 mins walk to get into the centre of town. Went down Ul Gorkovo and to the edge of the Kremlin. Lots of nice smallish roads to wander down. Have all day Friday and Saturday to explore so no rush yet. Especially liked Ul Alekseevskaya where there were lots of uber-trendy cafes – think this could be a cool city to hang out in. Passed about 4 sex shops but no internet cafes. But despite that I still got a good vibe.

Headed back to the flat about 8. Still no sign of my hosts when I got back but they finally made an appearance about 9.30pm. Irena and Yuri – both are delightful! Guessing they’re both in their mid 50s. They fed me bread and cheese with homemade apple juice from their dacha. Think Yuri is an academic – not sure about Irena.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 23. On the way to Europe

23. November

Another culinary delight for breakfast. This time it was micro-waved, powdered mashed potatoes. Totally smothered in butter again of course. Quite disgusting. Today Andrei has organised a big excursion for us outside of the city to the old part of Yekaterinburg and to the monastery erected at the sight of the mineshaft where the Romanov’s remains were found. Slightly macabre.

Well it was a long old day and I saw lots of interesting things but I won’t be too sad to say goodbye to Andrei. He’s the most irritating host I’ve had so far – would much preferred to have explored Yekaterinburg myself. Anyways, first stop on our grand excursion was a little town called Nevyansk (Невянск). It has a leaning tower which is apparently quite famous. The town used to be famous as a large producer of cast iron (brought to mind that wonderful sequence in Andrei Rublev where they cast the bell). It was founded by Peter I in the early part of the 18^th century. There was an English clock mechanism in the top of the tower. Nice. There was also a smallish cathedral nearby which we had a quick tour off (an unknown man gave me a candle to light which was nice of him – I think I put it in front of the saint who represented grammatical understanding and knowledge).

After that we went to a Russian ceramic pot museum and shop which was everything you would expect from a Russian ceramic pot museum and shop. Highlight of the day was lunch which was delicious homemade pilmeni in a small village outside of the town. There was a blazing fire in the fireplace and also a small Old Believer’s church in the garden.

We drove on and got to the site where the Romanov’s bodies where found around 5pm. It is now a complex in the middle of the woods for the Church – monasteries, seminaries etc. Quite a nice spot actually. So bloody cold that we didn’t stay long though. I think it is more humid here in the Urals perhaps. The last stop was the Europe-Asia border which is a geographical border based on the gradient of the Ural Mountains I think. Took a photo.

(c) Richard Breeson,

photos are taken from Richard's archive

Hint: 5 Russian children's songs to sing even when adults

Russian animation is another pride for Russians since childhood. We grow up watching cartoons, we learn what is good and bad through cartoons, we develop our music taste listening to the cartoons' songs and then, becoming older - still remember all of them!

Would you like to learn some? Here are 5 very famous and beloved songs! 


1. 'Ничего на свете лучше нету..." \\ 'There is nothing better in the world...' (from the cartoon: 'Musicians of Bremen')

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2. "Спят усталые игрушки..." \\ 'Tired toys are sleeping ...' (from the children's program 'Good night, kids) 
this is a song for a good night for few generations of Russian people

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3. "Кабы не было зимы ..." \\ 'If there were no winter ... ' (from the cartoon 'Winter in Prostokvashino') 
the cartoon, the song and the voice - all create unique, cozy and warm Russian winter

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4. "Луч солнца золотого... " \\ 'The ray of the golden sun ... ' (from the cartoon 'Musicians of Bremen') 
this ballad has become a song of love

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5. "Пусть бегут неуклюже ... " \\ 'Let them run ...' (from the cartoon 'Cheburashka and Gena the Crocodile') 
it is our birthday song! 

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Poster. Kitchen and food

useful posters to learn Russian

borrowed from УРЯ 

продукты 

кухня

The diary of a traveller, entry 22, Staying in Ekaterinburg

22. November

Well there’s definitely a lot to see here in Ekat (Ekaterinburg). Am a bit miffed at my accommodation people (HOFA) for putting me so far away from the centre in two cities now. Andrei gave me an appropriately weird breakfast earlier. Consisted of biscotti, milky, sicky porridge and bread with a centimeter thick slab of butter on it which I assumed was cheese at first before taking a nice big bite. “He’s trying to feed me up”, I thought. I feel that my Russian has completely deserted me since I arrived. Had a difficult time trying to change money in the bank earlier (I made sure the notes were all crisp and clean in advance). Going to be difficult to form a constructive opinion of Ekat in the limited time I have so will have to prioritise where to go. Off to the Museum of Youth to start with.

I didn’t go to the Museum of Youth because it doesn’t appear to exist anymore. Instead I went to the very small photography exhibition which contained lots of pretentious snaps including a collection by an apparently famous photographer documenting the everyday existence of, of course, drug addicts. My overall impression was that the majority of the photos in the gallery were either of drug addicts or taken by drug addicts. Spoke briefly with a Polish girl who works at the gallery. She’d been in St Petersburg for 3 years, moved to Ekat 3 months ago and lurves it. She walked off mid-conversation which I thought was a tad rude.

Really can’t make up my mind about Yekaterinburg at the moment. It certainly hasn’t won me over yet. I reckon this is the coldest I have been so far. Might have to break out the thermal underwear soon. A lot depends on your first impressions and where you’re staying and all that. Time of year, who you’re with, who you meet. All these things factor into your opinions and experiences in a big way when you come to a new place.

Back at the flat. This sofa bed is the most uncomfortable thing I have ever attempted to sleep on. I think it must be older than Andrei. Everything in this place is old and crusty and stale – like the dried bread crumbs on the floor.

from 'Trans-Siberian Journal' 

photos are taken from Richard's archive

Hint: 5 Russian great scientists to recognize

Science and great scientists - is one more reason to be proud of Russia. Here is JUST 5 scientists (oh how difficult is to choose among all of them!!!) to recognize and appreciate

1. Dmitry Mendeleev (1834-1907)

Russian chemist and inventor. He is credited as being the creator of the first version of the periodic table of elements. Using the table, he predicted the properties of elements yet to be discovered.

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2. MIKHAIL LOMONOSOV (1711 - 1765)

Russian polymath, scientist and writer, who made important contributions to literature, education, and science. Among his discoveries was the atmosphere of Venus. His spheres of science were natural science, chemistry, physics, mineralogy, history,art, philology, optical devices and others. Lomonosov was also a poet, who created the basis of the modern Russian literary language. The first Moscow University was founded by him, now the МГУ (MGU = MSU), which is the main university of the country, is named after Lomonosov. 

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3. SERGEI KOROLEV (1907-1966)

the lead Soviet rocket engineer and spacecraft designer in the Space Race between the United States and the Soviet Union during the 1950s and 1960s. He is considered by many as the father of practical astronautics.

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4. MIKHAIL KALASHNIKOV (born 1919) 

 a Russian (formerly Soviet) small armsdesigner, most famous for designing the AK-47 assault rifle, the AKM and the AK-74.

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5. ZHORES ALFEROV (born 1930) 

a Soviet and Russianphysicist and academic who contributed significantly to the creation of modern heterostructure physics and electronics. He is an inventor of the heterotransistor and the winner of 2000 Nobel Prize in Physics.  

Hint: 5 Russian dishes to try

Russian cuisine as well as everything that belongs to Russian culture is well-known not only within the country, but also abrod. Still if you ask any one 'What Russian dish you know?' or more than that - 'What Russian dish did you try?', the most usual reply will be 'mmmmmm.....'


Indeed, what is so special about the Russian food?

Russian cuisine is a par of a national tradition. Some dishes reflects the mentality of the nation, and of course the way of life. It's kitchen and the variety of dishes is mush more richer than it may seem from the first sight. Just imagine! What could YOU eat during the fasting periods - if you CAN NOT eat meat, milk, eggs, cheese and even sometimes fish? Or how to find food in the forest and enjoy your dinner after that? Do you think it's better to die instead? If you do - please, learn to cook Russian dishes!

Russia has a rich culture in cooking various savoury soups, it is famous for tender pies, and really talented in cooking and eating 'gifts of forest'- mushrooms!

Borsch, salads, beef stroganoff, tvorog, smetana, kovrizhka, rasstegay, kulebiaka.... Plenty of names worth trying! Let us today introduce 5 very speacial but not banal dishes!
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1. SOLYANKA
 - kind of thick, spice and sour soup
For meat solyanka (traditional one) we take ingredients like beef, ham, sausages, chicken breast, and cabbage, together with salted mushrooms, cucumber pickles, tomatoes, onions, olives, capers, allspice, parsley, and dill are all cut fine and mixed with cream in a pot. The broth is added, and heated for a short time on the stove, without boiling

Nice recipe is borrowed from SRAS

Make broth by boiling the meat and bones. Remove the meat and bones and place to one side. String-cut the onions and fry them in butter (without letting them brown). Add them to the broth along with the tomato paste. Remove the skin from the pickles, slice into cubes, and add to the broth. Cook 4-5 minutes. Add the pepper kernels and bay leaf. Next, add all the various boiled meats, finely sliced into pieces about 2-3 mm thick and 2-2.5 cm long, along with the capers, and a few pitted olives. When serving, add olives, sour cream, and a slice of peeled lemon. You may also cook solyanka with chicken broth and smoked meats instead. But remember: the greater the variety of meat, the tastier your solyanka will be!

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2. SYRNIKI

fried cheese \ cottage cheese (tvorog) cutlets garnished with jam, sour cream or sweet condensed milk.

Russians indeed are fond of all types dairy products. From our childhood we learn to drink a cup of KEFIR to improve our diestion. And SYRNIKI are great for breakfast.

Recipe with photos is found on 'Cheating cook'

Ingredients: 2 cups of quark or creamy cottage cheese, 2 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon flour, 3 tablespoons of flour for dusting, 1 egg, canola oil or butter for frying.

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3. KHOLODETS

seems to be like meat in jelly. It is a sour spicy dish, usually goes as appetizer and ate with mustard, much more burning that anywhere else, or horseradish which in Russia is similar to wasabi in its taste.

Ingredients:

2 lb beef/pork leg bones (sawed in pieces)
1.5 lb beef meat
1.5 lb chicken parts (legs or wings)
Filtered water
Salt
1 big yellow onion , peeled or washed
Black pepper corns
Bay leaf
4-6 cloves finely sliced or chopped garlic (optional)

Detailed recipe with photo is in Recipe Studio

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4.CHICKEN KIEV or Cutlet a la Kiev
popular dish of boneless chicken breast pounded and rolled around cold garlic butter with herbs, then breaded and either fried or baked.

 INGREDIENTS

4 oz (100g) Butter (At Room Temperature)
1 tsp Lemon Juice
1 tbsp Chopped Parsley,  pinch of Nutmeg, Salt & Pepper
4 Chicken Breasts
White Flour (Seasoned with Salt & Pepper)
2 Eggs
Dried White Breadcrumbs, Sunflower Oil for Deep Frying 

Detailed recipe is in Retro Food 

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5. PRYANIKI

maybe translated as gingerbread or spicy bread.

Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg,½ teaspoon ground allspice, 1/8 teaspoon salt

2 egg yolks

1 tsp vanilla, 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup honey

1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

Detailes recipe is in Global Cookies 

ПРИЯТНОГО АППЕТИТА! 

(pri-yat-na-va a-pi-ti-ta)