Celebrating New Year in Russian style, step 1

20 Dec – writing a letter to the Father Frost

You all know that the symbol of the New Year in Russian is Father Frost or Grandfather Frost as we call him – Дед Мороз. He lives in the North of Russia and a small town called Great Ustyug Ded Moroz is often shown wearing a heel-length fur coat, a semi-round fur hat, and valenki or jackboots on his feet. Unlike Santa Claus, he is often depicted as walking with a long magical staff

In advance, before the NY children use to send letters to Father Frost where they share what is their dream. You may also send him a letter and hope that next coming year your dream will come true!

Address

162340, Россия, Вологодская область, город Великий Устюг, дом Деда Мороза

The diary of a traveller, entry 28. Suzdal

29 November

In a bus now on my way to Suzdal. Today I think it is about –17oC . It certainly does feel very cold. Ivan was shocked but what I wearing in quite a patronizing way I felt. Although now, in retrospect, I think he was right. The air is so cold your chest tightens as you breathe. The has to be the coldest I’ve had so far on this trip. Arrived in Suzdal and after a bit of a mix up I got a Taxi to what I think is the central square. Despite the freezing temperature it is a truly beautiful day.

As my face was starting to turn numb I sought refuge in a couple of churches but they were both padlocked shut – surely not the best example of Christian charity. Finally found a café and ordered hot chocolate to keep myself alive. Got my bearings and summoned up the will power to venture out again. Headed towards the old Kremlin and the Suzdal History museum (I had some trouble sticking my used-ticket stub from the latter intro my scrap-book as my glue has frozen).

The best building so far in this incredibly attractive town in the church opposite the History Museum. Beautifully situated on an incline close to the small, meandering river with gorgeous blue & gold painted domes. The inside of all the walls and the ceiling are covered in icons and frescoes. It’s amazing considering how many of these scenes I’ve witnessed that still just as affected by seeing a new one. Spent the rest of my time in Suzdal photographing beautiful buildings and losing feeling in my fingers.

(c) Richard Breeson

Activities in Russia

Traveling in the whole is not the only thing you may look for going to Russia. THEN WHAT ..especially in winter..?? - would you ask. I'd tell you then - FEEL FREE TO CHOOSE! 


links lead to the resources with useful and detailed information about the tour, prices, reservation. 


Hiking and fishing, winter hiking in the Urals (find the suitable tour, book a place)
Twin-hull rafting in Karelia (timetable for the tours with prices, books a place)
Fishing in Astrakhan' 

photos by Sergey Dolia


Mountain skiing in Krasnaya Poliana (Caucasus), Elbrus, the Khibins, Kamchatka
Extreme jeep safari and helicopter tours in the Urals (for helicopter tours please go here)
Extreme hiking at the Lake Baikal (or here), Kamchatka and Caucasus
Visiting and exploring the furtherst and most unknown places like Commander Islands and the Kuril Islands
Eco-tourism in Karelia


else... 
Dog safari 
Horse tours
Bicycle tours

Enjoy it! 

Hint: 5 Russian cities to visit. Part 1, European part of Russia

We all know (I hope) that the capital of Russia is Moscow. So when you plan your trip to Russia, it goes without saying that you think of Moscow. That's right, of course. Moscow is still the heart of Russia, it's symbol, still life in Moscow has become quite different from that one in other cities and towns. 


Then you think what else to see in Russia. And immediately remember 'the Nothern capital', 'the Nothern Venice' or 'the cultural capital' of Russia - so many epithets for St-Petersburg, dear St.Pete... That's also right. This city is famous by gorgeous museums, beautiful Nevsky prospect, weird yards and rock musicians. 


And then,,, ? 


You of course know that Russia is much bigger than just these two cities. Let me introduce some more interesting places to see! 


1. Suzdal - Суздаль
small city, natural reserve, with the population around 10 thousand people, Suzdal is a part of so called 'Goldern ring', set of open-air museums of remarkable architecture.

Why to visit it? It is famous for the that almost the whole city is a museum itself. For example, here is NOT the full list of its places of interest ... 

• Суздальский кремль и относящиеся к Кремлю три церкви у крепостных валов:
  • Успенская (XVII век)
  • Никольская (1720—1739)
  • Рождества Христова (1775)

• Монастырские ансамбли
  • Спасо-Евфимиев монастырь
  • Покровский монастырь
  • Александровский монастырь
  • Ризоположенский монастырь
  • Васильевский монастырь

• Ансамбль Торговой площади
  • Торговые ряды (1806—1811, арх. А.Вершинский)
  • Церковь Воскресения (1732)
  • Церковь Казанской иконы Божьей Матери (1739)
  • Церковь Константина и Елены (Цареконстантиновская) (1707)
  • Церковь иконы Божьей Матери Всех Скорбящих Радость (1750—1787)
  • Церковь Входа Господня в Иерусалим (1702—1707)
  • Церковь Параскевы Пятницы (1772)

• Памятники Посада
  • Церковь Усекновения главы Иоанна Предтечи (1720 г.)
  • Церковь Святого Антипия (1745)
  • Церковь Святого Лазаря (1667)
  • Церковь Кресто-Никольская (1770)
  • Церковь Косьмы и Дамиана на Яруновой горе (1725)

• Памятники Заречной стороны
  • Церковь Знамения на Мжаре (1749)
  • Церковь Ризоположения на Мжаре (1777)
  • Церковь Бориса и Глеба на Борисовской стороне (1749 г.)
  • Церковь Ильи Пророка на Ивановой горе (1744 г.)
  • Церковь Богоявления в Кожевенной слободе (1775)
  • Церковь Рождества Иоанна Предтечи в Кожевенной слободе (1703)
  • Церковь Тихвинской иконы Божьей Матери (конец XVII в.)
  • Церковь Святого Николая у Покровского монастыря (1712)
  • Церковь Петра и Павла у Покровского монастыря (1699)

• Памятники слободы Скучилихи
  • Церковь Смоленской иконы Божьей Матери (1696—1707)
  • Церковь Симеона Столпника (1749)
  • Каменный посадский дом (конец XVII в.)

• Памятники близлежащих сёл
  • Крестовоздвиженская церковь в Коровниках (1696 г.)
  • Церковь Косьмы и Дамиана в Коровниках (XVIII век)
  • Церковь Флора и Лавра в Михалях (1803)
  • Церковь Михаила Архангела в Михалях (начало XVIII в.)
  • Церковь Александра Невского в Михалях (начало XX века)
  • Церковь Михаила Архангела в Ивановском (середина XVIII в.)

• Памятники музея деревянного зодчества
  • Преображенская церковь из села Козлятьево Кольчугинского района (1756)
  • Воскресенская церковь из села Патакина Камешковского района (1776)
  • Изба крестьянина-середняка из с. Илькино Меленковского района (XIX в.)
  • Изба из д. Каменево Камешковского района
  • Двухэтажный дом зажиточного крестьянина из д. Лог Вязниковского района
  • Дом с мезонином из села Тынцы Камешковского района (вторая половина XIX в.)
  • Ветряные шатровые мельницы из с. Мошок Судогодского района.(XVIII в.)
  • Амбар-лабаз из села Мошок (XIX в.)
  • Колесный колодец из села Кольцова Селивановского района. (XIX в.)
  • Баня из с. Ново-Александрово Суздальского района (XIX в.)
  • Два овина (XIX в.)

the official web-site of the city is here
on-line guide to Suzdal is this one
detailed guide to what to see there
gallery of its places of interest is Photo Suzdal 
 _______________________________________________________
2. Petrozavodsk - Петрозаводск
it is a capital of Karelia, the northern area in Russia. The city is nice, clean, full of interesting people and events, full of greenery - that is not striking as it is KARELIA, one of the most picturesque areas in Russia, one of the best places for hiking and kayaking. 
My favorite place here is a beautiful embarkment of the Lake Onega, almost the centre of the city 

Going to Karelia, you SHOULD see such places as Ruskeala\ Рускеала - unique marble canyon with its transparent emerald waters, Kizhi\ Кижи (for English) - to see the treasure of Russian wooden architecture, the open-air museums to see the way of life of people in 12 cent and to swim in the Lake Onega

The services and events in Kizhi (English)
Museums of Petrozavodsk
_______________________________________________
3. Sochi - Сочи
Famous resort, city on the Black Sea and the place for Winter Olympic games in 2014, this 'summer capital' is worth visiting and relaxing there. For tranquil vacation - go to the seashore. For active life - don't miss a chance to go hiking or do the mountain ski to the mountains of Caucasus! 

What to see there? 
Dolmens of North Caucasus 
Sochi Dolphin park
Sochi Ocean park
Krasnaya Polyana ('red valley') 

_____________________________________________________
4. Nizhniy Novgorod - Нижний Новгород


This old city is worth seeing 'on foot'. Beautiful architecture, the Kremlin, small houses... the charm of Russian province. It is also an important port of river cruise. 

Encyclopedia of NN
NN online
____________________________________________________


5. Pskov - Псков 


One of the oldest towns in Russia, Pskov is known since IX century. Still you may enjoy the views of the representatives of ancient architecture, like Krom (Pskov's Kremlin), cathedrals of former Ivanov's and Snetogosky's monasteries and old churches of St.Basil on the Hill and Kosma and Damian.

Old Pskov tour 
Pskov fortress 

The diary of a traveller, entry 27. Vladimir

28. Nov – Vladimir

Said goodbye to Nizhny and my favourite host family yet which was a bit sad! Grandma gave me a big old kiss and Irena walked me down (actually made the sign of the cross as I got in the car which was a bit over the top but touching nonetheless). Definitely one of my best stops so far. Kind of place I’d actively make an effort to go back and visit again.

On the train heading to Vladimir now – not too far I think (about 3 hours which is a stone’s throw in this country). Everyone in the carriage is either asleep or listening to loud, bad music on their head-phones.

Made it to Vladimir – my last stop before I rendezvous with Sam in Moscow for a more traditional holiday. I’ve got a very nice cozy little room to stay in with more books in it than all my other apartments combined. If I had a little more than 3 days here this could be a good way to improve my reading. My hosts seem nice – Ivan is about 30 and his parents Elizaveta and Evgenii are in their 50s I guess. I have a lot of churches and museums to get through so better head off now.

I went to the Golden Gate museum which was a small but interesting museum of the city’s history. It’s getting pretty dark and cold here. I might have to buy some more clothes as people are constantly telling me. I bought some gloves. Black. Leather. Then went to the Assumption Cathedral (Успенский Собор) where I saw the frescoes done by Andrei Rublev in 1408. That was awesome! The cathedral has a great setting detached from the main road in a little square. Bright neon street lamps lead to the entrance and the back of the city sprawls out behind it. On the way back I called into an unassuming café on Moskovskaya for a coffee. Things seem to be a lot cheaper in Vladimir than in some of the other places – like Irkutsk and Novosibirsk for example.

Back at the flat now. (I missed my stop by some distance on the bus ride back and ended up walking for about 30mins – probably not a good idea in this cold). Had some food and a chat with Ivan. He’s a very smart guy I think – but glum as they come. Seems to act as though the whole weight of the world was on his shoulders. We spoke a bit about Russian poets and writers and he made the usual pretentious claim that it’s all untranslatable. He could receipt passages of Mayakovsky by heart which was quite impressive. Elizaveta is an editor of books – reviews the spelling and grammar content for articles being published through the university press. Apparently just completed 150 pages in 2 days – makes me feel quite embarrassed seeing as it takes me about 150 days to finish 2 books these days.

(c) Richard Breeson

The diary of a traveller, entry 26. Interesting guy Maxim Gorky and how to become free from the group tour in a Russian museum...

27. November

My watch stopped working at some point yesterday. Very annoying. I am the kind of person that starts to hyperventilate if they don’t look at their watch 300 times a day.

Irena and Grandma spend a long time fussing over me to make sure I get the right tram into town. Which I do. Was quite sweet really. Nice tram! Actually had heated seats. After a bit of searching I finally manage to locate the Maxim Gorky’s house and the museum therein. It was fairly interesting and similar to the Dostoevsky house I visited in St. P. Nice old dear showed me round the rooms speaking rapid Russian which I struggled to keep up with. Haven’t ever read any Gorky but maybe I should – seems like an interesting enough guy. After that I wandered back to Minin Square opposite the Kremlin and had a look around the market nearby. Couldn’t find a cheap watch to replace mine (which has stopped) so bought some shashlik spices instead. Then called into a smart café nearby for a coffee and a slice of salmon quiche which was really tasty. Neither is going to help me tell the time of course.

Later in the afternoon I visited the State History museum which is set in a big old former Russian aristocracy pad. Basically the antithesis of the Gorky House in every sense. Probably the kind of thing he was writing indictments about in fact. After paying the inflated price for my ticket for being foreign I suddenly found myself swept up into this massive tour group of old crusties (trans. pensioners) who entered the museum at the same time as me. I tried to detach from the group and wander around the museum by myself (as I am used to doing in museums) but some unpleasant little attendant told me to get back in the group and not to break rank again. I explained – in pretty good Russian I think – that I wasn’t part of the group. I then proposed that I wander around the museum at my own pace. But this proposition was met with a negative response. As it was, our tour guide, Olga, was actually very good. It was basically like going round the equivalent of an old English stately home – National Trust or suchlike. The type of thing Jane Austen fans and old people love. There were lots of ‘ooohs’ as we entered the ball room. In fairness it was pretty impressive – evocative of Tolstoy & co. The best thing was how good the restoration job was. Especially the paint-work. They had really managed to recreate what I assume was the original opulence of a place like that. I suppose people get a vicarious thrill from that kind of place: imagine themselves teleported into that lifestyle somehow. Beats grim reality in fairness. I would have liked to have learnt more about the building’s history. Like what happened to it under the Soviets.

On that note I called in to a café on Pokrovskaya with a CCCP theme. Actually a nice plain kind of place – not contrived and good value. The décor included a bust of Uncle Joe and loads of photos of all the major players including that freaky one of Lenin when he was a baby (even then it looks like he’s wearing a wig). Ordered Siberian beer and dried calamari.

Back home at the flat Yuri treated me to a slide show of every photo on the family computer. When we’d gone through those he fetched the old physical photos albums and we went through all of those. Pretty exhausting looking through 600 photos of people you don’t know but it was a good way to practice Russian. Lots of holiday shots from a place called Krim – near Yalta I think.

The diary of a traveller, entry 25. ' Different cultures and all that'

26. November

Such a nicer place to be staying than the last one! Irena washed and folded all my clothes and I don’t even think she will be charging me for this kindness (a la Irkutsk). Alena came by for breakfast and we had a nice brief, chat. Although I’m not really sure about this fad of serving plain pasta with a frankfurter for breakfast. But then again, different cultures and all that. Had a chat with Yuri over breakfast about whisky (I like this man) and now setting off into town.

Alena gave me the number of her friend who wants to meet me and practice her English. I like it here. Makes me feel all the more sad that I the trip is coming to an end soon. Today the temperature is about 1 or 2°C. If it’s like this in Moscow I will be a happy bunny. Wandered down the pedestrian only Ul. Pokrovskaya which has lots of cool looking bars and cafes along it and some random statues too. Headed into the Kremlin which has a real mix of buildings – though mostly government and administrative I think. 

Passed about 6 weddings having their photos taken then visited the Church of Archangel Michael which was small but beautiful. Lots of classical icons – I wished I could have taken a few photos but I suppose it’s a good thing that I can’t. 

Then found the State/Fine Art museum. Had the largest collection of famous works so far but not as big as the museum in Novosibirsk. Saw some great paintings by Repin, Levitan, Rodchenko, Larionov, Kandinsky, Goncharova and Malevich. Now in a bar on Pokroskaya where they brew their own beer. Tastes pretty good. The Italian themed sausage I ordered was delicious.

Ilya Repin

I met up with Alena’s friend who wanted to chat in English for a bit. I think she’s a teacher here. Sorry to say her English wasn’t amazing. But the main problem was that she was just really boring which is a shame. Nice enough girl though – we walked around for about an hour down streets I’d already visited until I made my excuses and went home. My legs are knackered now.

Back at the flat I met Irina’s Mum (Alena’s grandma). She is a great grandmother already but seems to be completely together upstairs. I like Yuri a lot – he’s a positive guy. I’m sorry to say the family-TV-watching-session, which I was invited to partake in, wasn’t my thing at all! We watched some sickening concert by an apparently famous Italian-Canadian+something-else diva backed up by an equally famous Russian composer and full orchestra. (No idea who they were). I think it was live from a concert hall in Moscow. Imagine Celine Dion but even more smug (if that’s possible) performing a repertoire with the Russian equivalent of Andrew Lloyd Weber. I mean, I wasn’t expecting the Sex Pistols, of course, but even so. They seemed to love it though to I slapped on a fake smile and grinned through it. They kept asking me to translate the English lyrics which I politely declined to do. Even if I could have I wouldn’t have wanted to.

(c) Richard Breeson